According to one prominent gas station, the south begins on Delmarva. The far Eastern Shore is shared by three states: Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia. It’s a mix of coastal wetlands, beach communities, and empty farmland. Delmarva is where our journey picks up.
Delaware
The beautiful Cape Henlopen was a good introduction to Delaware. There were miles of bike paths and boardwalks that culminated in quaint Rehoboth Beach. From there the route went due south into a 20 knot headwind. Feeling a bit dispirited about leaving New Jersey and seeing heavy rain in the forecast, Ryan decided to hole up in a cheap motel for a couple nights.
Maryland
We hardly knew you. Ryan and I spent about 4 hours riding Maryland’s back roads. In that time, we saw only a handful of cars. I flew along the flat roads with a stiff tailwind, while Ryan zoned out to NPR news programs.
Virginia
The first stop in Virginia was a Walmart Supercenter parking lot. Ryan set up his tent among the trucks, locked me to it, and proceeded to pass out for the night. After that, we cruised on the tailwind all the way to the infamous Cheesapeak Bay Bridge where we met Ivan, our bridge shuttle driver. For me, it was a sad moment to be loaded into the back of a van and driven across the bridge. However, non-purist Ryan seemed to enjoy the fossil fuel assist almost as much as Ivan’s story about giving Lance Armstrong a ride.
Leaving the Eastern shore was a jolt, but thankfully Ryan had lovely family members to see in Virginia Beach. So, while Ryan ate Trader Joe’s salad and chatted with his Great Aunt Anita, I hung out on a deck in 50 degree weather. I’d normally complain, but in a couple months I’ll long for some cooler temperatures.
The final push to North Carolina was supposed to be uneventful. Google Maps showed a straight line path right down the coast through a mix of coastal towns and State Park land. There was a strong tailwind, and Ryan was feeling well rested and nourished after the stopover.
Then the sand began. Somewhere deep in False Cape State Park, the hard-packed trail went soft. Ryan deflated my tires but I still sank in and got wobbly. Ryan seemed frustrated, so he ditched me on the path and went for a walk. He came back elated! During his walk, he discovered a hard-packed beach and a very low tide. So, he dragged me over the dunes and proceeded to ride 16 miles on the windswept beach all the way to the NC state border. I’ve never heard so much giddiness. It must have been the summer sun getting to him.
Next stop: the Carolinas.
